{"id":3480,"date":"2015-08-16T21:10:49","date_gmt":"2015-08-16T20:10:49","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.rv-7.dk\/?p=3480"},"modified":"2020-07-07T20:09:22","modified_gmt":"2020-07-07T19:09:22","slug":"roll-bar-installation","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.rv-7.dk\/?p=3480","title":{"rendered":"Roll bar installation"},"content":{"rendered":"

I’m a few updates behind, so here’s a post that covers the last two weeks.<\/p>\n

According to my measurements, the roll bar brackets should sit about \u215b” behind the canopy decks. If I should redo this, I would have gone for\u00a05<\/sup>\/32<\/sub><\/span>“, but I’m not. \ud83d\ude09
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To hold them in place while matchdrilling, I used doublesided tape.
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Strangely, a lot of builders have problems with the brackets interfering with the edge of the seatback locks, but mine fitted perfectly! \ud83d\ude00
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As you can see in this picture, the brackets protrude of the side at the aft end. They have to be trimmed and shaped to follow the contour of the side skin.
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I matchdrilled the brackets to the fuselage frame.
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Having traced the trim shape to the brackets, I filed it into shape.
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Perfect, if I may say so!! \ud83d\ude09
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I marked and drilled pilot holes for the inboard roll bar bolts..
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Then drilled and bolted the bar to the brackets.
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With the bar securely bolted in place, I drilled the forward outboard bolt holes. (These are traced by the skin… look further down this post)
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I then drilled and countersank the aft holes. These will be hidden behind the skin.
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I then enlarged the skin holes and dimpled them for the forward screws.
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Forward holes countersunk, using the skin dimples as guide for the depth.
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Finally I tapped threads in these holes, hard to see, but they are..
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Tested. \ud83d\ude00
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That’s about it for the canopy frame. I still need to prime a few parts, but I will prepare some more parts before making another priming session.
\nSo, I dug out some of the parts for instrument panel and subpanels:
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Did a quick test fitting before calling it a night.
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